Two faces, two dials, two identities

High-performance escapement system with "triple chute" protection

Welcome to the new issue of "Behind the Lens", this is an ongoing series of articles in which I shared some photos of my watches and discussed the problematic watches and how I captured them visually.

The best thing about this series for me is that most of the watches I shoot belong to my good friends, and they kindly allow me to shoot their precious works-they usually encourage me to wear them.

This time, our subject is Patek Philippe Advanced Research Reference 5550P, which is a really lovely perpetual calendar with some interesting technical changes.

Patek Philippe Advanced Research Reference 5550P Perpetual Calendar

If you are like me, the first thing you notice is the dial! Just on the golden side of the silver, with a charming vertical brushing, it can capture different light in various conditions and positions.

I know very well that the visual elements on the front of this watch have incorporated a lot of thinking. It combines classic elements, such as domes and sharp small hands, as well as more technical elements, such as luminous hour, minute and dots. In hours.

The herringbone mark seems to float above the dial surface itself, adding extra interest.

For me, this watch is a good example, it doesn't necessarily need to be thick to give a sense of depth.

Complexity and simplicity: Patek Philippe refers to the texture and color of the 5550P dial

Looking directly and illuminated from the side, the main dial presents a more matte appearance, but we can clearly see the grooves and frosted sub-dial as well as the beautiful frosted moon and stars because they capture the light.

What I particularly like about this dial layout is that the numbers 31 and 1 on the calendar display are completely visible.

On some Patek Philippe watches (for example, my favorite Reference 5205 watch), the lower sub-dial is crowded toward the center of the watch, and the number on the top is obscured. This is not the case here.

Also, quickly look at the date numbers 5 and 27-they are a bit smaller than the others to accommodate. But Patek Philippe also did some very clever things with the surrounding numbers: look at how their size gradually becomes thinner, they are close to 5 and 27?

When viewing the watch at life size, this use of perspective can actually deceive the eyes; it was not until I looked at the macro photos that I noticed that all date numbers have different heights.

Details determine success or failure: Patek Philippe's 5550P is on the verge

Depth of Field: Focus Overlay

Now something completely different! This acute angle view gives us a real understanding of the dimensions of the little hand and the baton mark. To be honest, it is very interesting to create.

In macro photography, one challenge is the depth of field: at these distances and magnifications, the space in front of the camera that actually focuses is very thin. In addition to artistic intent, this is one of the reasons why so many macro photos of watches only focus on a small area while the rest becomes blurred.

In order to make such an image, we used "focus stacking", which is nothing more than taking multiple photos of different slices of the watch, and then using the miracle of the software to stitch all the sharpest pixels together.

It takes a while to learn focus stacking, and the results are not foolproof (translation: I spent a few hours taking a series of tedious photos for a given setting, only to find that the stitched together images look terrible). In the best case, it allows us to have this kind of outer space encounter with our favorite watch.

When looking at it, be sure to pay attention to more details that make the dial side of this watch unique: the curve and tilting platform of the small pointer, the radial bevel with the mark applied, and the brushing phase aperture on the vertical edge of the moon. To me It stands out.

Also, in this picture, you can see how subtle the brushing on the main dial is, from some angles, it almost disappears. My experience when shooting this watch is that it is easy to make the dial too bright and overwhelm the appearance of brushing your teeth-for me, this is probably the most attractive part of this dial.

Photography Rule 1 for Patek Philippe 5550P: Start with light

The photo above is probably my favorite of this watch because it shows this piece in a dramatic way. It is actually a photo, not a focus stack, and the resulting image is more vivid to me than most stacks.

There is also scattering of light thrown from the top of the crystal. Believe it or not, I spent a few years teaching myself how to eliminate light scattering in watch photos, but I only need to learn how to put it back in place!

I have to grudgingly admit that many of my very clear, non-scattering images are just a little bit, we can say, sterile. The wise use of directional lighting (in this case and many other situations, I actually use a small handheld flashlight) increases the sense of depth and contrast, which would otherwise be impossible.

Patek Philippe 5550P movement side protruding Oscillomax silicon system

Looking at Patek Philippe 5550P from a technical point of view

One thing we haven't considered is the inscription on the dial: "Advanced Research". In this sports view, the reason for this title becomes clear. If you need a hint, Patek Philippe’s kind people provide a built-in sapphire magnifying glass that can draw your eyes to the right place.

The Oscillomax silicon escapement system is combined with the Calibre 240 micro-rotor movement, which in turn consists of three subsystems: GyromaxSi balance wheel, Pulsomax escape wheel and lever, and Spiromax balance spring.

When it comes to Patek Philippe's use of silicon components in this and other works, I have two views.

Patek Philippe did make a deliberate argument for the use of silicon in the balance wheel and escapement: anti-magnetic force; able to place more relative mass on the outer edge of the balance wheel, increasing stability through higher angular momentum; able to be very precise The way to shape the escape wheel and the shape of the pallet fork, thereby improving the efficiency of the watch; and without lubrication.

All good things, compared with the standard caliber 240, the power reserve has increased by nearly 50%, from 48 hours to 70 hours.

When the mainspring is fully wound and released, the silicon-enhanced movement also maintains a more consistent time than the standard version.

At the same time, I am quite sympathetic to the watchmakers’ arguments, who point out (at least in today’s world) that silicon parts are the result of industrial processes and cannot be replicated using traditional watchmaking techniques.

Although the future owners of these Patek Philippe watches may not have to worry too much about the availability of these very specific spare parts, the potential "non-replaceability" of key parts of the watch makes me a little hesitant.

More important to me is the question of consistency: Are these special silicon parts suitable for very traditional perpetual calendars such as 5550P? Here, I am not so sure.

Patek Philippe recently used silicon in sports watches, such as Reference 5990 Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph and Reference 5200 Gondolo 8 Days, where silicon provides longer power reserve is an indispensable part of the watch concept, which seems more in line with me than using silicon in 5550P element.

And I must admit, I don't like the sapphire "Cyclops" magnifying glass on the 5550 scale.

To give a more extreme example, the introduction of the silicon escape wheel in Ulysse Nardin Freak, with its unique movement structure, seems to me the most natural thing in the world. Putting silicon parts into the very traditional Patek Philippe Calibre 240 architecture, despite the obvious functional advantages, seems even more discordant.

From a collector's point of view, it seems likely that Patek Philippe watches will be the first to adopt an all-silicon balance wheel and escapement system to become an enduring milestone. However, from the collector's point of view, I was first attracted by the beauty of the dial side of the watch.

Going back to photography, I hope you will agree to use scattered light wisely, thrown from the left in this case, and it seems to work for sports lenses as well.

Patek Philippe Reference 5550P in bright light

As they said, all good things must end. In this case, I returned the 5550P to its generous owner, and before I saw it again, I had these photos to remember it-now, how about you!

Patek Philippe Reference 5550P dial details

A quick look at Patek Philippe Reference 55.5 Perpetual Calendar Advanced Research Case: 37 mm platinum, the brand's typical diamonds between the upper ears represent the platinum case. Movement: Automatic Calibre 240 Q Si, equipped with Oscillomax silicon balance wheel and escapement functions: hours, minutes , Seconds; 24-hour indicator; perpetual calendar with leap year indicator; moon phase price: recent auction price (Christie’s, November 2013) US$108,000; original retail price of US$109,000 in 2011, limited edition launched at Baselworld that year: 300 pieces

* This article was first published on the back of the lens on August 13, 2014: Patek Philippe Advanced Research Reference 5550P Perpetual Calendar.

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Wonderful article. Can you share your camera and lens? Thanks!

I have 18 caret funny tables and I want to sell it. Please find me a buyer. Thanks! !

Sorry-not my specialty. good luck!

Please send me information, including your asking price.

Thanks, James! My articles in the past few years have been done using Hasselblad X1D II and XCD 120 macro lenses. At the time of writing this original article in 2014, I was using a Nikon D810 and Nikkor PC-E 85mm shift lens. Both of these are great tools for macro shooting games!

The technical aspects of this watch are incredible, but what I find more pleasing about this watch is that it does not try to look like a watch called "Advanced Research". Technological progress will not trigger Patek Philippe to manufacture a watch whose aesthetics can be called advanced or futuristic. Patek Philippe did not sacrifice its simplicity and elegance to prove the results of extensive design and research.

Great point, Alexander-a simple 3940 style piece that draws on the past while pointing to the future, the brushed dial is really awesome IMO.

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